The trees have been bent by the wind, but all is calm today on a hazy day looking down to Dunsbury Farm — The path down towards Dunsbury Farm and the village of Brook | © National Trust / Sue Oldham

Isle of Wight

Discover Dunsbury trail

Take a breezy and invigorating walk over the farmland and downs of the Dunsbury Estate on the Isle of Wight for magnificent coastal views and to learn a bit about the history of the island's coastguard too. We're working to improve the habitat here so that wildlife can flourish so, along the way, keep your eyes peeled for birds such as skylarks and butterflies such as the Glanville fritillary.

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Total steps: 7

Start point

Brook Chine car park, PO30 4HA, grid ref: SZ385836

Step 1

From the car park, take the path into the field just to the left of the track which leads down to the beach. Take the left-hand fork, following the line of the hedge and the road. Leave the field by the cattle grid and carefully cross the busy Military Road. Go along Brook Village Road and after 220yd (200m) turn left into Coastguard Lane. Follow the track past some houses then the terrace of coastguard cottages.

Coastguard cottages

In the early 1800s coastguards were stationed here mainly to combat smugglers. Over time their role changed to focus on the protection of those at sea. Land was purchased in 1861 to build a two-man permanent coastguard watch station. By 1900 there were between five and six coastguards living in these cottages. Although it was a busy location during the war, by 1960 only two coastguards were left. The station closed in 1971 as radar cover meant that fewer manned stations were needed.

Step 2

When the tarmac ends, continue straight ahead on the track signposted 'BS87 Shippards Chine'. Go through a field gate and past a pond on your left, then through another field gate. Turn right opposite the entrance to Compton Grange along the path signposted 'BS48 Dunsbury Farm and the Downs' and head up the field to a track about 110yd (100m) before the fence line.

Signs of a changing coast

The pond you'll see between steps 2 and 3 marks the course of a stream valley that was previously a tributary to the River Yar, but it has been cut off by coastal retreat. It would have originally formed a chine as the water poured over the cliff. This is a coastline which is constantly changing as the sea erodes the soft cliffs. On the Dunsbury Estate we're working hard to look after more of the landscape, provide coastal access and preserve wildlife.

An encroaching coastline on the Isle of Wight, an old stream could become a chine if not controlled — The pond near Compton Grange marks the course of an old stream valley | © National Trust / Sue Oldham

Step 3

Turn left along the track. When you reach Dunsbury Grange on your left, turn right through a gate and head steeply up a field, keeping the fence close to your right.

Butterflies

The coast on this part of the island is home to an amazing 33 species of butterfly. These include the rare Glanville fritillary, first discovered in England in the 17th century by Lady Eleanor Glanville. This striking orange chequered butterfly specialises in breeding on the crumbling clay cliffs where its caterpillars feed on ribwort plantain and then retreat into their protective webs. In good years, you'll also see these butterflies on the downs.

A female Glanville Fritillary in June at Compton Bay, Isle of Wight — A female Glanville Fritillary in June at Compton Bay | © National Trust Images / Matthew Oates

Step 4

Cross a stile on the ridge and turn right. Go onwards through a field gate and keep just to the left of the ridge top. Pass through another field gate and follow the grassy path through the next gate. Turn right immediately after the gate on 'BS86 Dunsbury'. Keep to the right of the track and take the higher grassy path when the main track bears left and descends. Head downhill to Dunsbury Farm, with hedges on both sides.

Step 5

Go through two field gates and turn right onto the tarmac farm track, then quickly left after just 40yd (40m) between the buildings, signposted 'BS102 Hamstead Trail'. The tarmac track bends left then right, heading gently downhill with buildings on both sides. Take the next left and go between hedges to a T-junction with a seat.

Birds, butterflies and wild flowers

Keep an eye out for an increasing number of farmland birds such as skylarks and linnets, as well as more wild flowers, butterflies and other wildlife. Since Dunsbury came into our care in 2015, we've been working with others to create 3 miles of beautiful, accessible coastline and farmland where coastal processes are not constrained and the environment is free to evolve. We've been changing much of the arable land to grassland to protect the soils and reduce rapid water run-off, and introducing the right type and number of grazing animals to create varied habitats for wildlife.

Step 6

Turn right here along BS107 to follow the bridleway down a sunken lane, eventually reaching Badger Lane. Bear right and follow the lane into Brook village. Turn left to visit the village, or continue with the trail by turning right along the road and go past Coastguard Lane back to the Military Road.

Brook village

Brook is a tranquil and picturesque village. Charles Seely, a coal field owner and MP for Lincoln, bought the Brook Estate in the 1850s and since then the Seely family have been very influential in this area. Seely Hall was opened in 1893 to offer villagers a reading room with daily and weekly newspapers and a small library. There's also a recreation room for billiards and other games for visitors' use.

Step 7

Take care crossing this fast and busy main road to the track opposite. Unlike the outward path, head straight ahead along the track which services the houses on Brookgreen. From here you can see the old lifeboat station near the cliff edge at Brook Chine. Just before a little bridge, follow a coast path marker post on the right through a field and head back to the car park.

Brook Chine lifeboat station

This is one of the most treacherous parts of the Isle of Wight coastline, especially in south-westerly storms. There have been many wrecks. Brook Chine lifeboat station was operated by the RNLI from 1860 to 1937 (it is now covered by Yarmouth and Bembridge) and the lifeboat crew here have saved over 380 lives. Six heavy horses and up to 30 volunteers were needed to launch the boat and its 13-man crew, and 10 horses (including local hero Warrior) were needed to drag the heavy boat back out of the water.

The squat remains of the lifeboat station at Brookgreen — The old lifeboat station at Brook | © National Trust / Sue Oldham

End point

Brook Chine car park, PO30 4HA, grid ref: SZ385836

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Compton, Isle of Wight, PO30 4HB

01983741020

comptonbay@nationaltrust.org.uk

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Total steps: 7

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End point

Trail map