Teasels and other spring wildflowers bloom by St Helens lagoon at low water — The path by the lagoon on the fringes of St Helen’s Duver | © National Trust / Chuck Eccleston ARPS

Isle of Wight

Down on the Duver circular walk

A short but varied coastal walk exploring St Helens Duver, a sandy spit of land on the eastern tip of the Island that is rich in wildlife and history. The gentle circular route passes Bembridge Harbour, the historic Isle of Wight Golf Club and the village of St Helens with its famous Old Church. Keep an eye out for a wide variety of birdlife along the way, from waders in the harbour to whitethroats, wheatears, chiffchaffs in the dunes.

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Total steps: 6

Start point

St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892

Step 1

Leave the National Trust car park by following the hedge to the left of the interpretation panel and parking meter, and go on up the sandy path by the green dog bin. Cross the grass and go on over the road, aiming for the boats in Bembridge Harbour. Bembridge Fort is on the skyline.

The Duver

Duver (pronounced ‘duvver’) is the local name for a stretch of sand by the sea. Sea currents deposited sand and shingle at the mouth of the River Yar over many years. The stabilised sand dunes now provide an unusual habitat for 250 species of flowering plants. There are bright displays of thrift in May, and the Duver is also home to rare clovers and autumn squill with its lilac-coloured, bell-like flowers.

Parched summer grasses on St Helens Duver used to be manicured fairways — The grassy areas of St Helens Duver were once fine golf links | © National Trust / Chuck Eccleston ARPS

Step 2

Turn right at the water’s edge then follow the raised causeway path between the lagoons and around buildings to Mill Quay. Take the first tarmac road on the right by Mill House. Go up the hill to the top, passing caravans on both sides.

Bembridge Harbour

The Harbour as we see it today was created in 1880 when an embankment was built across the entrance to Brading Haven. Before that there had been several ambitious but unsuccessful attempts to drain the estuary known as Brading Haven to create farmland. The embankment was topped by a railway branch line which brought prosperity to the area, but this was closed in the 1950s. Today, Bembridge Harbour is primarily used for recreational sailing and fishing.

Step 3

Bear right along the bottom edge of St Helens Green, claimed to be one of the largest village greens in England. Bear right again at the end, then carry straight on into Duver Road when the main road swings sharply left at a bend.

Step 4

Just before some traffic lights, turn right onto a path by an interpretation panel (signed R88 to the Duver) which leads past St Helens Common. This is the Gaggen Path, which gets its name from press gangs which used to hide here and then gag their victims. Go down the path to the end.

St Helens Common

To the north of the Duver lies St Helens Common, where much of the scrub has been cleared to open up splendid views over the Duver. It was given to the National Trust in the 1920s, and a memorial stone halfway down the Gaggen Path commemorates this. A flock of black Hebridean sheep help restore the land to its original condition as a flower-rich grassy common. Orchids flower in early summer, and winter heliotrope later in the year. Look out for blackcap in the scattered bushes.

Step 5

Upon reaching the Duver by a wooden bridge, follow the path behind the interpretation panel round to the left and meander along to the Old Golf Club building. Bear left behind the clubhouse to meet the access road, then briefly left and right to reach the sea beside St Helens Old Church, where there are picnic benches.

Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club

The grassy area of the Duver was once home to the Isle of Wight Golf Club. Opened in 1882, it was the first golf club on the Island and one of the first in England. The nine-hole course attracted a number of celebrity players, including Queen Victoria’s eldest son Bertie and youngest daughter Beatrice, Prime Minister Arthur Balfour and later the actor David Niven. The land was presented to the National Trust in 1961 and the clubhouse is now let as a National Trust holiday cottage.

Formerly the golf clubhouse, the Old Club House on St Helens Duver is now a holiday cottage — The Old Club House at St Helens Duver is now one of our holiday cottages | © National Trust / Sue Oldham

Step 6

Follow the sea wall to the right. Take the first gap to the right after a long line of beach huts made from old railway carriages (just after number 28) and turn inland through the dunes. Bear right by the National Trust omega sign and return to the car park by the steps.

St Helens Old Church

The Old Church was built on the sand of the Duver in the 14th century and dedicated to St Helena, from whom the village takes its name. The Benedictine community which it served disbanded in the 15th century and the church gradually fell into disrepair. It deteriorated further when limestone rocks acting as sea defences were used to construct a new embankment. Stones from which the church was built were also removed. Today only the tower remains, painted white as a seamark for shipping.

End point

St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892

Trail map

Down On The Duver circular walk map | © Crown copyright and database rights 2015 Ordnance Survey

A grassy path entices the walker onto St Helens Duver

Trail

A coastal walk at St Helens Duver

A circular coastal walk from St Helens village that takes you along a wildlife-rich sandy spit of land.

St Helens Duver, St Helens, Isle of Wight, PO33 1XZ

01983741020

isleofwight@nationaltrust.org.uk

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Down on the Duver circular walk

Total steps: 6