In the beginning
The Goodwin Sands, also known at the Great Ship Swallower, cover a huge area of the English Channel between South Foreland and Ramsgate. The 10-mile sandbank, which is hidden below the sea for most of the time, has long been a graveyard for ships and mariners alike.
Since the 14th century there have been warning lights positioned on the White Cliffs, which overlook the Sands, to warn ships of this hazard. In 1367 Brother Nicholas de Legh hung a lantern on the cliff face in order to warn sailors of the danger.
The first lighthouse
The first recognisable lighthouses were built on South Foreland in 1635. A distinguished soldier, Sir John Meldrum, arranged for two iron braziers to be put in place – an upper and a lower - and from that time onwards there has always been two lighthouses here.
Meldrum’s lease was taken over in 1642 by Robert Osbolton, and on the death of Osbolton’s son in 1715, Greenwich Hospital took over. One of their first improvements was to put glazing around the fires, but unfortunately the smoke deposits blocked the lights and after 12 years the glass had to be removed.
In 1793 John Yenn redesigned the upper lighthouse using oil lamps, and two years later the lower light was rebuilt to a similar design.
The current lighthouse
The Upper and Lower Lighthouses that you see today were built in the middle of the 19th century. The Upper Lighthouse was heightened and refurbished in 1842, and in 1846 the Lower Light was fully rebuilt. The works were supervised by one of the greatest Victorian engineers, James Walker FRS (1781-1862).
The Upper and Lower Lighthouses can be seen from the land but are even more obvious when viewed from the sea. Sailors would line up the two lights, and when the Upper Light shone directly above the Lower Light, they knew they could steer safely past the southern tip of the Goodwin Sands.
Time for change
By 1904 the movement of the Goodwin Sands meant that this arrangement was no longer safe and the lower light was decommissioned. A much brighter flashing light was installed in the Upper Lighthouse, and for most of the 20th century South Foreland shone out nightly over the Straits of Dover.
The lighthouse was decommissioned on 30 September 1988, when modern navigational aids meant the light was no longer needed. The light remained dark until June 2012 when it once again shone out across the English Channel in honour of Queen Elizabeth II's diamond jubilee.
Modernisation
Mains electricity was brought to South Foreland for the first time in 1922, and the 50-year old Holmes generator was finally shut down. At the same time some of the mechanical functions in the lighthouse were automated.
The lighthouse finally became fully automated in 1969, and the resident keepers were transferred to other lighthouses. The National Trust took over the care of South Foreland in 1989 once the lighthouse had been decommissioned.